Two weeks ago, during Replica Watches and Wonders, Rolex unveiled its new 2022 lineup. As always, the brand divided its launches between major highlights—the Air-King and the left-handed GMT-Master II alongside subtle updates to existing models. It was a very Rolex move: evolutionary rather than revolutionary. Yet this year felt a little more adventurous, with the Crown reworking two of its most unconventional pieces. One is the GMT-Master II with a left-hand crown, the other is a complete refresh of the most controversial modern Rolex: the Air-King.
The Air-King holds a unique place in the brand’s history. While overshadowed by icons like the Submariner, the GMT-Master, and the Datejust, the Air-King has been part of the catalog since 1945. Originally created as an entry-level model inspired by Rolex’s wartime “Air” watches, it debuted with a 34mm case considered large at the time and a straightforward time-only layout. Through early references such as the 4925, 4499, and especially the long-running 5500, the Air-King became known for its understated Oyster design and reliability. For decades it represented Rolex’s no-nonsense daily wearer, a kind of younger sibling to the Explorer.
The collection evolved cautiously. The reference 14000 arrived in the late 1980s with sapphire crystal, new movement, and dial options including the Explorer-style 3-6-9 layout. Later, the 114200 family introduced chronometer certification while keeping the watch firmly in the entry-level bracket. Production of these 34mm Air-Kings ended in 2014, leaving a brief gap before Rolex surprised the market in 2016 with a radical departure.
That 2016 release, the Air-King 116900, was unlike anything Rolex had produced before. Based on the Milgauss case and movement, it was upsized to 40mm, fitted with antimagnetic properties, and paired with a bold dial design inspired by the Bloodhound SSC land speed car project. The glossy black dial mixed oversized 3-6-9 numerals with minute markers at every five, Mercedes hands, a green seconds hand, and a yellow logo. The look was divisive—some loved its daring presence, while many found it cluttered and confusing. It became one of the most polarizing Rolex models of the modern era.
That brings us to 2022 and the new Air-King reference 126900. At first glance, the design appears similar, but the changes are deeper than they seem. The case has been redesigned with straighter lugs and a new crown guard, giving the watch a sportier, more contemporary profile. The bracelet has also been updated, with broader center links and an Oysterlock clasp usually reserved for more professional models. Inside, the outdated 3131 movement has been replaced by the modern calibre 3230, bringing superior precision, power reserve, and efficiency.
Perhaps most importantly, Rolex refined the dial layout. The polarizing aesthetic remains, but the numerals are now fully luminous, and the overall execution feels sharper and more balanced. It’s still bold, still unlike any other Rolex, but it finally looks intentional rather than experimental.
The Air-King has always been something of an outsider in the collection. What began as a pilot-inspired entry-level watch became an eccentric oddball in 2016, and with the 126900, it now matures into a fully fledged professional Replica Rolex. While it may never achieve the universal popularity of the Submariner or the Datejust, this latest version feels like the brand has finally found the right formula keeping the rebellious character of the Air-King, but elevating it with the refinement expected from Rolex.
